Blue Skin Yarns Blog

Free Knitting Pattern: Dachshund Stuffy Toy Sweater

debimartin83@gmail.com (Debi Martin) — Sat, 09 Mar 2024 23:58:32 GMT

A super simple knit that will add a personal touch to an already cute handmade toy!

Make a little sweater for your dachshund stuffed animal! You can purchase the simple sewing pattern from Retro Mama on Etsy, and once you've finished the dog, it's time to dress it up in style.

Sewing the Dogs

For my dogs, I printed the pattern at 105% scale so they would be a tiny bit bigger than the original design. For the patchwork version, I sewed 2.5-inch squares of fabric together to make a piece of patchwork fabric big enough to cut out the pattern pieces from, then quilted it with a layer of cotton batting (no fabric backing) by stitching .25-inch lines on both sides of the horizontal and vertical seams. When sewing the dog together, I did not use the triple stitch (though I did use it for the fabric-only gray dog). A felt nose was too bulky, so I colored in the nose with a black Sharpie Stained fabric marker ; I actually like the colored nose better than the felt and will definitely do this for all future dogs that I make.

I really like the sturdiness of the patchwork dog compared to the fabric-only dog, but both are super cute.

I found the easiest way to stuff the dogs was to grab enough stuffing to make the basic shape of whatever portion of the dog I was working on (tail, leg, body, etc.) and then pack that in. It definitely took some work to get the stuffing smooth and relatively free of lumps. A perfect TV project!

Materials and Preparation

Materials

Yarn: 33 grams (about 85 yards) Blue Skin Yarns Angela Sport yarn, or similar (100% 17-micron merino wool, 285 yards per 115-gram skein)

Needles: US size 2 (2.75 mm) or size needed to achieve gauge and US size 1 (2.25 mm) or 1 size smaller than main needles used. You will need dpn (double-pointed needles) in both sizes for the first section, and then you can switch to standard needles or circular needles for the rest.

Other: Stitch markers and tapestry needle for seaming

Gauge

My knitting gauge for this project was approximately 22 stitches and 36 rows over 4 inches.

Want to use a different yarn weight or gauge? Is your dog larger or smaller than the pattern?

I've created a spreadsheet that will automatically calculate the number of stitches needed to cast on for any size yarn and any size dog, as long as it's made from Retro Mama's pattern; click here to view the spreadsheet . Simply make a copy of the spreadsheet to enter your own measurements and knitting gauge (obviously make sure to calculate your knitting gauge from the yarn you wish to use).

The spreadsheet will also calculate how many stitches you need to increase in the short-row section on each side to fit your dog's chest measurements, but due to the stretchy nature of knitting (especially ribbing), I recommend following the pattern as it is unless the spreadsheet indicates you should increase more than 8 stitches; in that case, I recommend increasing a few additional stitches.

Abbreviations

dpn = double-pointed needles

k = knit

k1p1 = knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch

p = purl

p1k1 = purl 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch

RS = right side

st = stitch/es

W&T = wrap and tuck (move yarn to opposite side you've been working, slip next stitch purlwise, turn work, slip next st back onto working needle; click here for more instructions)

WS = wrong side

The Pattern

With larger needles, cast on 60 st (or the number calculated by the spreadsheet. Divide st among 4 dpn and join to work in the round.

Rows 1-11: With smaller needles, k1p1 around.

Row 12: Switching to larger needles, k all st.

Row 13: P3, k to last 3 st, p3.

Row 14: Repeat Row 12. Turn work (we will no longer work in the round).

Row 15 (WS): K3, p to last 3 st, k3.

Row 16: K all st.

Rows 17-23: Repeat Rows 15 and 16 three more times, then work Row 15 once more.

Row 24: K 30 st, place marker, k 30 st.

At this point, try the sweater on the dog to make sure the length on the back lines up with the general area of where the sweater will join behind the leg on the belly. If it is too short, work a few more rows (repeating Rows 15 and 16).

Row 25: K3, p to 4 st from marker, W&T, thus beginning the short-row section. If desired, place a stitch marker in this row to mark where you started the short rows. If your spreadsheet calculates that you need to increase more than 8 stitches in this section, continue to increase as desired at the end of every other RS row.

Short Row 1 (RS): K to end.

Short Row 2 (WS): K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 3: K to 3 st from end of row, M1R, k3 (1 increased). If desired, place a stitch marker in each added stitch.

Short Row 4: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 5: K to end.

Short Row 6: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 7: K to 3 st from end of row, M1R, k3 (1 increased).

Short Row 8: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 9: K to end.

Short Row 10: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 11: K to 3 st from end of row, M1R, k3 (1 increased).

Short Row 12: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 13: K to end.

Short Row 14: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 15: K to 3 st from end of row, M1R, k3 (1 increased).

Short Row 16: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 17: K to end.

Short Row 18: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 19: K to 3 st from end of row, M1R, k3 (1 increased).

Short Row 20: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 21: K to end.

Short Row 22: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 23: K to end.

Short Row 24: K3, p to 3 st from last wrapped stitch, W&T.

Short Row 25: K to end.

Row 26: K3, p to 3 st before opposite edge (resolving the wrapped st and slipping the marker as you come to them), k3.

Row 27: K to 4 st before center marker, W&T, thus beginning the short-row section on the left side of the sweater. If your spreadsheet calculates that you need to increase more than 8 stitches in this section, continue to increase as desired at the beginning of every other RS row.

Short Row 1 (WS): P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 2 (RS): K to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T.

Short Row 3: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 4: K3, M1L, k to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T (1 increased).

Short Row 5: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 6: K to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T.

Short Row 7: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 8: K3, M1L, k to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T (1 increased).

Short Row 9: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 10: K3, k to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T.

Short Row 11: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 12: K3, M1L, k to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T (1 increased).

Short Row 13: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 14: K to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T.

Short Row 15: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 16: K3, M1L, k to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T (1 increased).

Short Row 17: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 18: K to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T.

Short Row 19: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 20: K to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T.

Short Row 21: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 22: K to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T.

Short Row 23: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

Short Row 24: K to 3 st before last wrapped st, W&T.

Short Row 25: P to 3 st before end of row, k3.

The picture below shows what your sweater will look like once all short rows are complete and you are ready to continue.

Row 28: K across all st, resolving wrapped st as you come to them and removing the center marker.

Row 29: P to end.

Row 30: K to end.

Rows 31- 44: Repeat Rows 29 and 30 7 more times (or to desired length)..

Rows 45-55: P1k1 to end, matching pattern on WS and RS.

Bind off in pattern and break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in all ends except the long tail (we'll use that).

Finishing

Soak the sweater and block gently, without stretching.

Place the sweater on the dog. Thread the long tail of yarn at the hem of the sweater on to a tapestry needle and stitch the sweater closed at the dog's belly with mattress stitch.

Since I was donating these to a benefit auction, I made a simple box out of pallet boards to display them in, staining the wood with Minwax red oak .

Test Call: Alchemist Sweater

debimartin83@gmail.com (Debi Martin) — Tue, 28 Sep 2021 02:33:34 GMT

Calling all testers! This two-color sport-weight sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down.

This is my first published sweater design! The Alchemist is knit seamlessly from the top down; the top back of the sweater is cast on and stitches are picked up for the front; the neckline and top portion of the sweater are knit flat, then joined at the underarms to work the body of the sweater in the round. Sleeve stitches are picked up, and the sleeves are worked in the round. Neckline ribbing stitches are picked up to finish the garment.

About the Pattern

Yarn

I used my Angela Sport bas e in Whispers (light gray) and The Alchemist's Rainbow mini skein set. You can substitute any other sport weight yarn in any color combination you like. The amount of yarn needed will be calculated in the pattern, based on your swatches and measurements. For reference, I generally wear a size medium, and my sweater used 1225 yards (495 grams) of yarn.

The pattern is written for one main color and a contrast color, but you can get as creative as you like for the contrast color; I used eight different colors for mine, changing colors each row during the colorwork.

Sizes

This pattern is not a typical knitting pattern with pre-built sizes; instead, it uses your preferred sweater measurements and your gauge swatches to create a custom guide for making this sweater exactly as you want it. Want a cropped sweater? Easy. Prefer short sleeves? Simple. Like a baggy sweater and just the right length? Done and done. This means that swatching is extra important, but it allows you to create a sweater unique to you.

Needles

US size 3 (3.25mm) or size needed to obtain gauge: circular needles
US size 3 (3.25mm) or size needed to obtain gauge: double pointed needles or desired type to work small circumferences in the round
US size 2 (2.75mm) or 1 US size smaller than the needles chosen above: double pointed needles or your favorite type for working small circumferences in the round

Notions

3 visibly different types of stitch markers
waste yarn or spare needles to hold live stitches
tapestry needle

Gauge

You will swatch three different stitch patterns to measure your gauge. My own gauge is given in the pattern as a guide, but it's okay if yours doesn't match exactly; the important thing is to get a nice, close fabric that you like for a sweater.

Techniques

Knit and purl
Two-color stranded colorwork
Picking up stitches
Single increases
Knitting charts

Testing Information

Number of Testers Needed

I am looking for at least five testers, and as many as ten, creating a variety of sizes.

Timeline

I plan to distribute the pattern to testers no later than October 2, and I would like the test to be complete by December 31, 2021. If your sweater cannot be completed by then, that's not a deal breaker; let's chat about it.

Test Requirements

For a successful test, I would ask that my testers do the following:

Perform the swatching and measuring as directed in the pattern
Track the yarn you use (yardage or weight)
Call out any confusion or potential error in the pattern (this helps me make it clearer for everyone)
Create a project page on Ravelry (if you use Ravelry) linked to the pattern when it is released, including gauge, needle sizes, yarn details, and photos

Test Format

My test knits are hosted in my private Facebook group. I use tagged topics to track different tests if there is more than one going on at a time.

Compensation

All test knitters who complete the requirements above will receive the following:

A free copy of the final pattern
A 20% discount on any order from my Etsy shop
A free copy of the pattern to gift to a friend
Written credit in the pattern

How to Apply

If you have not test knit for me before, the first step is to fill out my test knitter application here . Once you receive your official welcome email from me, you can then join the private Facebook grou p , where you will find a pinned announcement post with the Alchemist test information; simply comment on that post what yarn and general size you'd like to use (despite my patterns being written as recipes instead of set sizes, it's helpful to know generally what sizes will be created).

Thank you so much for your interest!

How to Make a YarnSketch Pillow

debimartin83@gmail.com (Debi Martin) — Fri, 07 Dec 2018 03:05:58 GMT

Creating a pillow insert and closing up your YarnSketch

Now that you've knitted up your YarnSketch pillow, let's create the pillow form and put it together! You can always purchase a ready-made pillow form and knit your YarnSketch to the size of the pillow form (instructions for planning and modifying the size are included in most of the YarnSketch patterns), but it's super simple to make your own. Let's get started!

Supplies Needed

Fabric: roughly twice the width of your pillow and twice the height of your pillow
Ruler (or a printer to print cutting templates)
Scissors (or rotary cutter and cutting mat)
Stuffing
Sewing machine
Needle and thread for stitching pillow form closed
Crochet hook (optional)
Tapestry needle for seaming and/or weaving in yarn ends

I used a cutting mat, but you definitely don't need one if you're not using a rotary cutter; a table or the floor works just fine.

I used a rotary cutter and a ruler to cut the size of the fabric I need, but if you don't have or like those things, I recommend using Microsoft Publisher or similar software to create a square or rectangle template the size you need and just print out your pattern.

1. Cut Your Fabric

Now let's figure out what size to cut your fabric. Measure your pillow's width and height.

Add approximately 1 inch to both the width and height measurement. This is the size of the fabric you need; cut two pieces.

For example, my pillow is 7.5 inches wide and 6.5 inches high, so I cut two pieces of fabric 8.5 inches wide and 7.5 inches high.

If you don't feel comfortable measuring and cutting right on the fabric, you can draw (or print from a computer) the required measurements on paper, pin the paper template to the fabric, and cut around the paper template.

2. Sew the Fabric Pieces Together

Place the fabric pieces together with the wrong side of each facing outward (right sides together). With your sewing machine, stitch around the entire outside edge with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving an opening of about three inches on one side.

With scissors, clip each of the corner seam allowances of your pillow by snipping first from the point of the corner almost to the point of the seam and then across the corner (see pictures below).

Turn your pillow right side out through the gap you left in the seam.

3. Stuff Your Pillow

Stuff the pillow to your desired fullness. I don't like my pillows fat, so I don't stuff them tightly, but if you like them fat, stuff it just as full as you like!

4. Close the Seam

Now we'll sew up that hole. With your fingers, fold under each raw edge of fabric to match the fabric folded by the seams. It will actually be folded already because of the seams, but it's helpful to make sure the fold is even all the way across the hole and to press the fold firmly with your fingers, as the fold will be your sewing guide.

Using a needle and thread, stitch the hole shut using a ladder stitch. If you aren't familiar with this, here is a great photo tutorial , and here is a handy video tutorial .

That completes your pillow form! Now let's finish the pillow.

5. Assemble Your YarnSketch Pillow

Insert the pillow form into your YarnSketch pillow "case." This should be a bit of a tight fit; we want the pillow form to stretch the knitted pillow at least slightly.

6. Close the YarnSketch Pillow

The final step is to stitch shut the open edge of your YarnSketch pillow. There are several different ways to do this, but my favorite is to use a crochet hook to slip stitch the edge. This creates the rather bulky seam at the bottom of my pillow that I want. If you don't want the bulky seam, feel free to use any seaming method you like, such as a whip stitch . Here's a webpage that demonstrates multiple ways to seam knitted pieces together .

If you want to use my method, here's a helpful tutorial on seaming knitted pieces together with crochet slip stitch . And here are a few pictures of my process:

When you get to the very last stitch, cut your yarn and pull the yarn all the way through the loop.

With a tapestry needle, weave in the ends of your seaming yarn.

And you're done! Your YarnSketch pillow is complete and ready to enjoy.

Thanks so much for making a YarnSketch pillow. I've had so much fun playing with colors and texture and yarns, and I hope you enjoy it just as much as I have. I can't wait to see your own yarn sketches!

The Story of Lilla, Chapter 4

debimartin83@gmail.com (Debi Martin) — Sat, 01 Dec 2018 05:22:21 GMT

A yarn club in five chapters

Chapter four of Lilla's story finds our princess accustomed to her colorless life outside of the castle. But her refusal to own her identity doesn't change who she is: she's still a princess. She is destined to discover that there can be no abandoning of her royalty, though she isn't able to believe it yet. Her resignation and hollow life are represented in the somberness of this month's colorway, a semisolid gray-toned purple, pale but beautiful and luxurious on the elegant alpaca silk blend of my Kadek base.

The pattern for this chapter is a snuggly cardigan designed by Melissa Kemmerer to wrap generously, which is just what a lonely princess needs when she's living outside her palace walls and denying where she belongs.

Because a cardigan requires quite a large amount of yarn, I am opening this chapter's kit for smaller orders if you don't wish to buy a cardigan quantity.

Chapter 4 is available to pre-order until the end of the day on Monday, December 10, and signups are limited. Don't wait! :) Orders are scheduled to ship mid month (and likely sooner).

If you missed the previous chapters but would like to purchase them, you still can until December 10! Click here for Chapter 1 , here for Chapter 2 , and here for Chapter 3 .

This is not a typical yarn club. There are only five installments, each one based on a chapter of the story of Lilla and different shades of purple (the word lilla is "purple" in several different languages). You aren't automatically signing up for all the chapters by purchasing one, but you'll get a 10% discount on other chapters when you buy one.

Each chapter's kit includes the story chapter, a knitting pattern, and the yarn needed for the pattern. There's also a custom project bag from Lavender Hill Knits and a custom watercolor print from Erin Kate Archer to preserve the memories of the story and your finished objects. If purple isn't your thing, you can choose any color from my shop instead.

There is also a KAL for each chapter of the story; stop by my Ravelry group to join the fun!

I hope you find the journey of knitting through this story as personal, joyful, and healing as I found writing it.

It comes straight from my heart to yours.

Happy knitting!

The Story of Lilla, Chapter 3

debimartin83@gmail.com (Debi Martin) — Thu, 01 Nov 2018 02:31:46 GMT

A yarn club in five chapters

Chapter 3 of Lilla's story opens with an unexpected surprise and continues with tragedy and disappointment, none of which were part of the future our princess spent years dreaming of. The light in her eyes begins to fade.

The new shadows in the princess's heart are reflected in this month's colorway, a tonal variegation of royal purples, deeper and darker than the previous chapters.

The pattern for this chapter is an elegant and protective shrug designed by Heather Boyd to fit closely and warmly, just as Princess Lilla draws into herself. Heather's also offering a free hat pattern to match the shrug!

Chapter 3 is available to pre-order until the end of the day on Saturday, November 10, and signups are limited. Don't wait! :) Orders are scheduled to ship mid month (and likely sooner).

If you missed the previous chapters but would like to purchase them, you still can until November 10! Click here for Chapter 1 and here for Chapter 2 .

This is not a typical yarn club. There are only five installments, each one based on a chapter of the story of Lilla and different shades of purple (the word lilla is "purple" in several different languages). You aren't automatically signing up for all the chapters by purchasing one, but you'll get a 10% discount on other chapters when you buy one.

Each chapter's kit includes the story chapter, a knitting pattern, the yarn needed for the pattern, and any stitch markers required. There's also a custom project bag from Lavender Hill Knits and a custom watercolor print from Erin Kate Archer to preserve the memories of the story and your finished objects. If purple isn't your thing, you can choose any color from my shop instead.

There is also a KAL for each chapter of the story; stop by my Ravelry group to join the fun!

I hope you find the journey of knitting through this story as personal, joyful, and healing as I found writing it.

It comes straight from my heart to yours.

Happy knitting!

The Story of Lilla, Chapter 2

debimartin83@gmail.com (Debi Martin) — Wed, 03 Oct 2018 01:21:07 GMT

A yarn club in five chapters

Chapter two of Lilla's story finds her entering womanhood and beginning to experience what she's waited for all her life. She remains innocent and sweet as she takes her first steps into her future, and this journey is represented in the femininity and simple sophistication of the Chandelic shawl designed by Erin Kurup. Containing both squishy garter stitch and elegant lace, and knit from the top center out, the crescent-shaped shawl grows wider with every row, even as Lilla's world widens, creating a dramatic flared shape that’s classic and timeless, just like the princess in our story.

The custom yarn colorway for this chapter is a subtle blend of warm and cool purples that represent the shifts and shades of life that await our princess as her story continues. When knit up, the colors blend together just the way life does, with highlights and shadows complementing each other.

Chapter 2 is available to pre-order until the end of the day on Wednesday, October 10, and signups are limited. Don't wait! :) Orders are scheduled to ship mid month (and likely sooner).

If you missed Chapter 1 but would like to purchase it, you still can until October 10! Click here for all the info .

This is not a typical yarn club. There are only five installments, each one based on a chapter of the story of Lilla and different shades of purple (the word lilla is "purple" in several different languages). You aren't automatically signing up for all the chapters by purchasing one, but you'll get a 10% discount on other chapters when you buy one.

Each chapter's kit includes the story chapter, a knitting pattern, the yarn needed for the pattern, and any stitch markers needed. There's also a custom project bag from Lavender Hill Knits and a custom watercolor print from Erin Kate Archer to preserve the memories of the story and your finished objects. If purple isn't your thing, you can choose any color from my shop instead.

There is also a KAL for each chapter of the story; stop by my Ravelry group to join the fun!

I hope you find the journey of knitting through this story as personal, joyful, and healing as I found writing it.

It comes straight from my heart to yours.

Happy knitting!

The Story of Lilla, Chapter 1

debimartin83@gmail.com (Debi Martin) — Sat, 01 Sep 2018 00:00:00 GMT

A yarn club in five chapters

This special yarn club has been on my heart for so long, and the story itself for years before that. Today it is finally a reality: chapter 1 is now available!

This is not a typical yarn club. There are only five installments, each one based on a chapter of the story of Lilla and different shades of purple (the word lilla is "purple" in several different languages). You aren't automatically signing up for all the chapters by purchasing one, but you'll get a 10% discount on other chapters when you buy one.

Chapter 1 is available to pre-order until the end of the day on Monday, September 10, and signups are limited. [Update: the kit will only be available during the first ten days of each month from September through January, but here is the link for those times: https://www.etsy.com/listing/625996410 .)

Each chapter's kit will include the story chapter, a knitting pattern, the yarn needed for the pattern, and any stitch markers needed. There's also a custom project bag from Lavender Hill Knits and a custom watercolor print from Erin Kate Archer to preserve the memories of the story and your finished objects. There are two different fiber blend options for the yarn this month, and if purple isn't your thing, you can choose any color from my shop instead.

There will also be a KAL for each chapter of the story; stop by my Ravelry group to join the fun!

The story begins with a young girl at the brink of womanhood, excitedly looking ahead at all the dreams waiting for her. She is innocent and pure, just like the warm, pinkish purple and light contrasting speckle created for Tamy Gore , who designed a lovely crescent-shaped shawl to represent the bloom and untarnished hope of girlhood.

I hope you find the journey of knitting through this story as personal, joyful, and healing as I found writing it.

It comes straight from my heart to yours.

Happy knitting!